by Edward Simmons
Cut the sides of the box down so that he can get out easily. Whatever sleeping arrangement you make for the dog, be sure that the bed is warm, easy to get in and out of, and out of drafts. Raise the bed off the floor a bit if drafts are a problem. The first few nights that a puppy spends away from the litter can be traumatic for him, and for you. It helps to tuck a hot water bottle into his bed and to set a ticking clock or a quietly playing radio nearby; these surrogates will take the place of the warmth and sounds of the litter and help him feel less lonely. lf the puppy cries the first few nights, be patient. Don't give in and let him sleep in your bedroom or on your bed; you'd be setting a precedent you may not be happy with later.
After a few nights he'll quiet down and be content in his own bed. The same goes for the older dog a1though in this case you can dispense with the hot water bottle and the clock. During the time you're training or house-breaking your puppy, you can keep him confined in a wire cage, or crate, instead of in a single room. These crates are available at any pet supplier and usually are collapsible when not in use. The best type lets the dog see out on all four sides. Basically, the crate is like a baby's playpen, and it should be big enough for the dog to lie down and turn around, but small enough so that if he eliminates in the crate he will be soiling his own bed. The whole idea is that the puppy will not, or should not, relieve himself where he sleeps. If you choose to use a crate remember two things:
• The cage must be large enough to accommodate the dog so that he can turn around and lie down comfortably.
• The puppy must be kept in the crate at all times when you're not home, and must sleep in the crate at night. lf you want your dog to live outside, you must provide suitable housing to protect him against extremes of heat or cold.
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